Carb Rebuild

After a second attempt at getting her to start, it was obvious that something was wrong with the carb. Fuel is just dripping out of the carb body. Called my local dealer and they actually had the carb kit of the motor. On the way back with the kit I grabbed a gallon of chemtool parts cleaner. The carb came off easy enough. Then I removed the choke pressure acctuator, and the float bowl. The float was in pieces and the needle valve was shot as well as the fuel inlet valve. With it completely apart, all the parts went into the basket and then into the parts cleaner. Then I walked away for 24 hours. Next day I pulled the parts out and all the old crud and paint were coming off. Over to the sink and lots of hot water later the parts looked brand new. Back to the work bench where new parts from the carb kit were installed. Carb was reassembled and made ready to put back on the motor.

Tried to start the motor

Well, I got the motor all wired up and the rebuilt starter installed. Primed the gas lines and made sure that everything was tight and no leaks. All looked good. With the plugs out I verified that there was spark on both of them. Decided to spin the motor a little more before putting in the plugs to pull fuel and oil into all of the bearings. It has been a while since she ran. Then I installed the plugs and left the wires off. Starter turned the motor over nice and smooth. Installed the plugs. Moment of truth. After a little cranking she back fired again and again. Hmmm. Advanced the throttle a little. After a couple of tries and working with the joke I got a sustained run for a few seconds but then she died. Figured I was starting to make some progress though. Next time I went to start though, the starter just spun the fly wheel. Suddenly I realized my mistake !! I forgot to install the fly wheel nut !! Yes I had done some checks on the ignition system but I forgot to tighten the nut. So take it apart and sure enough the woodruff key is sheared. Decided to pack it in for the evening. Here are some photos.

My test stand and test tank.

What is left of the woodruf key after a couple of starting attempts with the fly wheel not properly tightened.

Looks like a motor again

Got the motor hanging back on the pan then replaced all of the rubber hoses. This is a very important step. The hoses that were there looked ok, but they were all very rotten.

 

 Shop also called saying the starter was ready for pickup. So at this point the plan is to mount the starter and then get the wiring figured out. Then turn her over with the starter to confirm that I have a good spark on both cylinders. Then time to see if she will start.

Putting the motor together

Installed the pivot parts today. Slid the lower motor mount on to the tilt mechanism and then installed the nylon bushings and lower snap ring. Next I slid the main shaft into the bushings and installed retaining bolt. When this is all done you get something like this.

Next I took the motor pan and bolted it to the bracket. Then started installing the other bits and pieces. Several of the little bits and pieces needed painting.

Once you get it together you get something like the picture above. 

Tilt / Mount Assembly

With the parts painted it is time to start putting the mount back together. The first picture shows the two exterior brackets.

This next photo shows the interior  mounting bracket ready to install along with the lock and unlock lever

So now the idea is the lever has to go into the little slot on the front of the interior mounting bracket and connect to the rod that locks and unlocks the motor tilt. So you slide the lever into place and it hits the various pieces on the bracket. And guess what it does not work. So I fiddled around with it and finally figured out that the lever does not go in straight, it goes back into one of the pockets. The picture shows how the lever fits back in there and hooks up to everything.

You will also notice in the picture that one of the side brackets is already installed. This just makes it easier at this point. Next slide the lock bracket into place and slide on the other bracket. Then put the retaining nut in place. The end result from the backside should look something like this. You can also see the spring that keeps the tilt pin lock in its proper place.

So here it is all back together and ready for the next step of assembly.

Paint Showed up

The paint came in to finish working on the motor. Sprayed the center tilt assembly with a couple of coats. Hopefully start reassembly of the main motor mount section this week. By the way I get the paint from this website. http://www.nymarine.ca/ Check it out, he has all of the color charts for all of the various years of the motor as well as having all of the paint available. Easy to work with over the phone or via e-mail once you are an established customer.

Shift Shaft Seal

The @#$%^& shift shaft seal on my 1962 RDS-24 has been a real pain to replace. There is a pressed in brass bushing that you are supposed to hammer out using a special tool. So I purchase the tool, however, the brass piece refused to come out. So I looked at the diagram in the manual. See it turns out that the manual shows the parts coming in from the top of the gear case, but they don;t they come in from the bottom. Finally I just tap it and pull the bushing out. Guess it was stuck good from 40+ years of service. You can read about the whole saga as well as the folks that helped as well as additional links right here http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=578384.

A new busing as well as other seals and parts are on the way from www.marineengine.com. This is also an excellent website. Just put in your part numbers. If it is available you just click and order it.

Lower Gear Case

Pulled the plugs out of the lower gear case hoping to see nice black oil. No luck. A brown watery muck slowly tripped out. So time to split the case and take a look. The screws came out easily. Too easily !! They were only finger tight. Got the cover off and the gears were covered in brown muck. Sprayed everything with a lot of cleaner and eventually there were nice clean gears sitting there. Everything came a part nice and easy. Bearings look. Seals need to be replaced. Seal kit is on the way. After cleaning and new seals I think it will be good for reassembly.

Taking the motor further apart

Today I removed the motor pan from the housing. Then removed the housing from the mount. Turns out that the two bushings that mount the housing to the mount are REALLY REALLY hard to get out. Finally I double checked that replacements units were available and then I cut them out. The parts separated with no problems. Now time to get everything cleaned up. Looking for someone who does bead blasting.

Mostly apart

Well I pulled all of the bolts out and separated the motor from the holder. Photo below shows just the holder. Now have to get it cleaned up and ready for paint.

Once the power unit was off the holder I separated the lower unit. It came of pretty easy. Here is the power unit with the lower unit removed. The little hole in the side with the cover missing is where you loosen the screw to disconnect the shift shaft actuator.

Put the lower unit on the stand and pulled the water pump. All the bits and pieces are in good shape. Of course it needs a new water pump.

Next step is to find all the parts, probably on eBay, to actually perform the extension.

Taking the Motor Apart

Pulled the drive shaft cover off the back of the motor. Discovered that in the gap between the cosmetic drive shaft cover and actual drive shaft housing a critter had setup house keeping. And then at some point had died there. So the source of the smell no longer a mystery. Shop vacuum took care of the nest and the derbies. Took a good look at the engine mounts and figured out how to pull the power and drive section out of the mounts.

Decided to see how stripping the cover I had removed would go. Sprayed it with an aerosol  stripper. The can all but exploded. Will be taking that back to Lowes for a refund. However, some of the stripper did get sprayed on to the part. This picture shows it at the start of the stripping process.

Next I tried a can of strong engine degreaser. That seemed to work . It seemed to remove the repaint that some one had done in the past without too much damage to the under lying paint. Washed out a good amount of grease and grime from inside the housing.

Points Points Points

First off, at some point this blog will be about working on a 1961 Crestliner, for now though it is about working on the motor that will push the boat. So I got new points and a coil and installed them and there was NO spark. Started looking around and trying to figure out what is going on. Took all the wires off of the points and hooked up some leads. Found out that the points were not closing all the way. They were opening but not closing. A couple of adjustments later and Spark appeared !!! Time to start cleaning up the motor. Here is a picture of the magneto assembly ready to go. Just have to  put the fly wheel back in place.

Replaced Points

So I replaced the non-firing points and condenser. Also replaced the points grounding wire. Then all the parts were put back on the motor. Guess what NO spark on the upper cylinder. Hmmm. So I dug into it a little. After ringing all kinds of circuits I realized that everything rings to ground !!! Well that was not very useful. So I removed the coil and realized that there is a little metal piece through the middle of the coil. On the firing coil that piece rings to ground. On the non-firing coil it rings to nothing. So a new coil ?? One has been ordered along with some new spark plug wires. This is getting frustrating. Once the parts are here I will report if we have fire on the upper cylinder.

A couple of useful links on old OMC engines
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/...x/24/index.cfm 

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...%20Tune-up.htm

Motor Spark Check

Before I go to far on this motor I have this desire to hear it run. Ok knowing I want to restore it to factory original maybe that is some what unrealistic and maybe not worth the effort, but if I am just pulling the power head vs tearing it completely down seems useful. So I pulled both plugs and went hunting for a spark. The good news is there is spark on the lower plug. There is nothing on the upper plug. Time to go find wiring diagrams because there are all kinds of wires that I don't fully understand. Found wiring diagrams at  http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Johnson. Studied them for a while and determined that my vacuum cutout switch was probably grounding the one coil. So I removed that coil wire from the vacuum switch and tried again. Still no spark. So at this point who knows. Maybe something I am missing or maybe something broken. Coil or points.

Motor Arives

Found this 1962 40HP johnson motor on eBay. Claimed that it was running earlier this year, however, I can tell you that no it was not running in years. However, it looks like all the parts are there and it pulls through with good compression. Wiring is all there, but oh boy it is worn out and brittle. So, think I will start with new wire to see if I can get her to fire and then figure out where I go from there.

Motor Purchased

Well the boat is still sitting in storage, but I picked up a 1962 Johnson RDS-24 to hang on the transom. Would like to find another one so that I have twin 40HP which should push her a long really well. Motor is scheduled to ship on Monday, so if all goes well, it should be here middle of next week. Using uShip.com for the first time. Will report how it all goes.

New Boat Project

As if the 1974 boat was not enough, I now have a 1961 Crestliner cuddy cabin to work on as well. This is actually the boat that I grew up with. The hull is in pretty good shape, but has some damage typical of 50+ year old fiberglass. The transom has started walking aft as well. So far it has bowed almost 2 inches at the top from true. The goal of the first day of ownership was to well own it. It took 3 trips between the court house and the registery agent before all the paper work was right and the state issued me a new registration in my name. With that cleared up we hooked on to her and pulled it to its new storage place. In a couple of months the goal is to trailer it on to Oklahoma where I can start tearing into her. Hopefully before the winter as I would like to have a good deal of it done over this winter and ready to start thinking about the water in 2013 and certainly by 2014.